On the twentieth anniversary of its UNESCO World Heritage designation, the peninsula city of Luang Prabang remains one of Laos’s most enchanting destinations. Located in the country’s mountainous north, the city offers a relaxed, walkable experience filled with historic Buddhist temples, a distinctive fusion of Laotian and colonial architecture, lively outdoor markets, and a range of traveler-friendly hotels and restaurants that make even those with special diets feel comfortable.
Photography Zupachai Laokunrak and Rodolphe Gay
DO THIS:
Tak Bat Ceremony
If there’s a reason to rise before dawn, it’s to witness the 6:00 a.m. alms-giving ceremony along Sisavangvong Road. Despite the number of visitors and cameras, the sight of monks in vivid orange robes moving quietly through the streets to receive offerings remains deeply moving. If you’d like to give, ask your hotel staff for guidance on proper etiquette and timing.
The tak bat: morning alms collection by Buddhist monks in Luang Prabang
Massage
Traditional Laotian massage is widely available. Peninsula, a modest spa near Xieng Thong Temple on the Mekong, welcomes walk-ins and focuses on pressure-point work. It’s an affordable, restorative option, often costing around $6 per hour.
Kuang Si Falls
A short drive from town, Kuang Si Falls (also spelled Kuang Xi or Tat Kuang Si) is a three-tiered travertine cascade that’s popular for good reason. The pools are ideal for cooling off on hot afternoons and are frequently photographed for social media. Expect a small admission fee and bring a towel if you plan to swim.
Temples
Luang Prabang is home to some of Laos’s most beautiful temples, open year-round. Bring cash for entrance fees, dress modestly (women should cover bare shoulders), and take time to admire the intricate murals and mosaics that decorate many of the town’s more than thirty Buddhist places of worship.
Bike Ride
While the city is highly walkable, renting a bicycle is a pleasant, efficient way to cover more ground and escape the midday heat. Many hotels lend bikes, and rentals are commonly available on Sisavangvong Road, the main thoroughfare.
Shop
Souvenir stalls are plentiful but not all offer high-quality keepsakes. For well-crafted fashion and accessories, check out Anakha and for collectible textiles, artifacts, and photographs visit Gallery Asiama, both noted for curated selections.
Mount Phousi
Climb more than 300 steps to the summit of this small hill for panoramic views of the peninsula and surrounding countryside. Along the way you’ll pass shaded stops and small temples. Sunset draws crowds; visiting early in the morning provides a quieter, more contemplative experience.
Luang Prabang National Museum
Housed in a 1904 building that blends traditional Lao design with French beaux-arts influence, the former royal residence displays artifacts, antiques, and gifts received by the royal family. It offers valuable context on the region’s history and culture.
Mekong River Cruise
You don’t need a formal cruise to enjoy the Mekong. Pick up a bottle of wine from a local shop, have it opened, and charter a small boat for sunset photos as the sun slips behind the surrounding hills. With negotiation, a short private boat trip can be affordable and memorable.
The Night Market
Luang Prabang’s night market weaves along Sisavangvong Road and nearby streets, offering handicrafts, textiles, jewelry, and street snacks. Bargaining is part of the experience; if you prefer a more relaxed stroll, simply enjoy the lively atmosphere and window-shop the artisans’ offerings.
EAT HERE:
Traditional Laotian cuisine centers on rice and often uses fish sauce, soy sauce, and oyster sauce. Some dishes may contain MSG and many servers are unfamiliar with the term “gluten.” To minimize risk, choose naturally gluten-free dishes: fresh summer rolls, larb (minced meat seasoned with herbs and fish sauce), and sticky rice with mango and coconut. Avoid street food if you have strict dietary restrictions and favor restaurants with English-speaking staff.
Café Toui
A small, relaxed spot that avoids using MSG, Café Toui serves freshly prepared Laotian dishes. The atmosphere is unhurried, and free WiFi makes it convenient to catch up on messages while you wait. Recommended: sausages, spring-roll-style fresh rolls, and pumpkin curry.
Manda de Laos
This stylish alfresco restaurant sits beside a large lotus pond and specializes in refined Laotian family dishes. Recommended: mix-it-yourself laap moo (minced pork with lime and herbs), oua mak phet (barbecued sweet pepper stuffed with pork), and Luang Prabang feu (a fragrant rice-noodle soup).
One of the atmospheric dining areas at Manda de Laos
L’Eléphant
With a lively European ambiance and colonial-inspired decor, L’Eléphant blends French classics with Laotian touches, sourcing produce from on-site organic gardens. It’s an excellent spot for a leisurely meal and wine. Recommended: buffalo tartare or selections from the seasonal vegan menu.
La Belle Epoque
Located at the Luang Say Residence, this elegant restaurant combines European and Laotian flavors using ingredients from its organic gardens. The veranda overlooks the property’s lush grounds and pool, making it ideal for a refined, romantic meal. Recommended: eggs Benedict for breakfast and larb or a crouton-free Caesar for lunch.
DRINK IT IN:
Opera House Wine Bar
Set on the main street near the night market, this wine bar and tapas restaurant is a pleasant place to sit on the terrace, enjoy a bottle, and watch the city pass by.
525 Bar
A polished downtown venue offering sophisticated cocktails and an upscale atmosphere.
SLEEP HERE:
Luang Prabang’s tourism-driven economy means accommodations can be pricier than expected, but many rates include breakfast, which helps offset costs. Options range from luxury retreats to well-appointed boutique hotels within easy reach of the town center.
The Luang Say Residence
A short ride from downtown, this upscale property features colonial-style rooms, an infinity pool, an on-site restaurant and bar, organic gardens, complimentary bikes, and shuttle service. Multilingual staff help bridge any language gaps.
Explorator suite at Luang Say Residence, a luxury boutique hotel in Luang Prabang
Maison Dalabua
A short walk from the center, this mid-range boutique hotel offers comfortable rooms, a pool, spa services, and serene pond features, along with the popular Manda de Laos restaurant on site.
The BelleRive Boutique Hotel
Set along the river on the historic peninsula, this property spreads its rooms across three colonial buildings decorated with Laotian and colonial elements. The riverfront dining area offers breakfast with views over the Mekong.
GET MORE GFF: To see more photos and the additional recipes featured in the original magazine issue, consider obtaining the print or digital edition of the Winter 2016 issue.