Ternes-Wagram-Pereire: Insider Guide to Paris’s 17th Arrondissement

The Ternes Wagram Pereire neighborhood sits in the heart of Paris’s 17th arrondissement, a short walk from Place de l’Étoile and the Champs-Élysées. It’s a genuine Parisian neighborhood with a warm, residential feel and plenty to offer food lovers: lively food markets, a full street devoted to groceries and produce, numerous bakeries, cheese shops, cafés and an abundance of restaurants. Read on to discover the highlights of this charming area.

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Ternes Wagram Pereire Neighborhood Guide

Read on to discover this delightful neighborhood.

The Ternes Wagram Pereire Neighborhood Vibe

This neighborhood is largely residential and feels like everyday Paris: families dropping children at school, older couples strolling the Promenade Pereire, and neighbors walking dogs in the early evening. It’s an authentic slice of Parisian life—calm, friendly and lived-in.

That said, two major attractions are nearby: the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs-Élysées, both worth visiting while you’re in the area.

man, woman and yorkie in the Ternes Wagram Pereire neighborhood in Paris France

Things to do/see (the main sights in the area!)

Arc de Triomphe

Climb the Arc de Triomphe for one of the best panoramic views of Paris. The terrace gives you a sweeping outlook down the city’s grand avenues and is a memorable experience.

Champs-Élysées

The legendary Champs-Élysées is just steps away. Walking it at night is especially magical: shops and cafés are lit up, crowds thin out and the avenue feels both festive and relaxed. During winter the avenue sparkles with holiday lights; in summer it’s perfect for an evening stroll.

Recommended stops for a drink or dinner include the Drugstore, Fouquet’s and Brasserie Alsace. For Italian-inspired cocktails and honest pizzas, Casa Luca is a great choice. Sir Winston offers a warm setting with British and Indian influences. For coffee during the day, Bacha Coffee is a pleasant option.

Bakeries (croissants, pains au chocolat and bread)

The neighborhood has many excellent bakeries, including several standout patisseries worth seeking out.

French Bastards

French Bastards is often praised for an exceptional croissant—crispy outside, tender inside, and perfectly buttery. They also sell quality loaves (but not traditional baguettes).

Address: 35 Place Saint-Ferdinand 75017 Paris

Arlette et Colette

Arlette et Colette is known for the neighborhood’s best pain au chocolat with generous dark chocolate sticks and flaky, buttery pastry. Their flan and pear-chocolate tart are crowd favorites.

Address: 13 rue Lebon 75017 Paris

Pastries and sweets

Ternes is a great area for sweet treats, with several patisseries and chocolatiers to explore.

Chapon

Chapon features a chocolate mousse bar with refined desserts for chocolate lovers and is a solid stop for an indulgent treat.

Address: 11 rue Poncelet 75017 Paris

Pierre Hermé

Pierre Hermé, an internationally acclaimed pastry chef, offers exquisite macarons, chocolates and pastries. His macarons and signature desserts like the deux mille feuilles are particularly celebrated.

Address: 37 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris

La Pâtisserie Cyril Lignac

Cyril Lignac’s patisserie on rue Bayen doubles as a café with indoor and outdoor seating—ideal for enjoying coffee and a pastry on the spot.

Address: 9 rue Bayen 75017 Paris

Fromageries (cheese shops)

Fromagerie Beillevaire

One of Paris’s top cheese shops, offering a broad selection and expert service.

Address: 7 rue Bayen 75017 Paris

Fromagerie Alléosse

A trusted neighborhood fromagerie with a fine array of cheeses.

Address: 13 rue Poncelet 75017 Paris

Out for Drinks (Apéro)

The area has many inviting bars and bistros perfect for an apéro or evening out.

L’Ambre Cocktail Bar

Cozy and elegant, L’Ambre evokes a 1930s downtown cocktail bar with a refined drinks menu crafted by experienced bartenders.

Address: 29 rue Brunel 75017 Paris

Le Dada

Le Dada is a beloved bistro at Avenue des Ternes and rue Poncelet, popular for wine and spritzes. In spring and summer the terrace fills with locals enjoying the sunshine.

Address: 12 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris

Amici

An Italian wine bar on Avenue des Ternes, Amici is perfect for Prosecco and shareable Italian bites—try the mozzarella fritta.

Address: 77 Bis Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris

Restaurants

The Ternes neighborhood is known for its diverse and high-quality restaurants, from historic institutions to newer, trendy spots.

Chez Fred Depuis 1945

Chez Fred is a historic favorite offering Lyonnais and classic French dishes. The atmosphere, attentive service and well-executed traditional cuisine make it a top pick for a special dinner.

Address: 190 Bis Bvd Pereire 75017 Paris

Timgad

Timgad serves authentic Moroccan cuisine in a longstanding local setting—try specialties like méchoui (slow-cooked lamb), fish tagines and savory pastillas.

Address: 21 rue Brunel 75017 Paris

Kirane’s

Kirane’s offers Punjabi dishes since 1976, including dum-cooked specialties where meat or fish is slow-roasted under rice and dough for rich, aromatic results.

Address: 85 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris

Le Relais de Venise – L’Entrecôte

Famous for its entrecôte steak, this restaurant rarely accepts reservations and often has lines—go early to secure a table.

Address: 271 Bvd Pereire 75017 Paris

Dessirier

A chic seafood restaurant ideal for fresh fish and seafood platters.

Address: 9 Place du Maréchal Juin 75017 Paris

Petit Bao Ternes

A lively spot for contemporary Chinese cooking and relaxed dining.

Address: 266 rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré 75008 Paris

Café Miznon

Café Miznon’s neighborhood sandwich shop is a casual option for tasty deli sandwiches—perfect for a picnic or a quick meal.

Address: 9 rue Rennequin 75017 Paris

Schwartz’s Deli

For classic diner-style comfort food—burgers, sandwiches and more—Schwartz’s offers an American-style meal in the 17th arrondissement.

Address: 22 Avenue Niel 75017 Paris

Mon Petit Poulet

Known for excellent rotisserie chicken to take away, Mon Petit Poulet also serves American-style ribs glazed in homemade BBQ sauce.

Address: 10 rue Saint-Ferdinand 75017 Paris

Coffee shops

Loutsa

Loutsa is a local favorite for organic specialty coffee. It’s small and cozy—great for coffee to go or a relaxed sit-down with matcha or hot chocolate.

Address: 11 rue Lebon 75017 Paris

Cafe Loutsa in the Ternes Wagram Pereire neighborhood in Paris France

Food markets

The neighborhood offers both a covered market and a renowned market street for fresh produce and specialty goods.

Rue Poncelet

A full food market street where you can buy fruits, vegetables, meat, poultry and more—perfect for grocery shopping or sampling local stalls.

Address: rue Poncelet 75017 Paris

Marché Couvert des Ternes

This covered market on rue Lebon sells fresh produce, fish, meat, cheese and prepared foods, with friendly vendors and a classic Parisian market atmosphere.

Address: 8 bis rue Lebon 75017 Paris

Grocery stores

Naturalia

An organic grocery chain where locals often shop; seasonal offers and a membership card with discounts are available.

Address: 47 rue Guersant 75017 Paris

Bio C Bon

Another reliable organic grocery option in the neighborhood.

Address: 79 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris

Monoprix

Monoprix stocks groceries, wine, household items and clothing—useful for everyday shopping and souvenir hunting.

Address: 25 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris

Carrefour Market

A convenient spot to stock up on essentials and household supplies.

Address: 3 rue Pierre Demours 75017 Paris

Wine shops

Nicolas

A nationwide wine chain with an expert staff and a broad selection of wines and champagnes at competitive prices.

Address: 108 Avenue des Ternes 75017 Paris

Monoprix

Monoprix also offers a solid wine and liquor selection across price ranges, making it a convenient one-stop shop.

Florists

Deschamps

Deschamps is a renowned florist known for elaborate seasonal displays and beautifully arranged bouquets. They also supply decorative facades and sell Christmas trees during the holiday season.

Address: 18 Avenue Niel 75017 Paris

Deschamps Fleuriste in the Ternes Wagram Pereire neighborhood in Paris France

Parks & gardens

Promenade Pereire

Once the site of the Ligne d’Auteuil train tracks, Promenade Pereire was converted into a garden in the late 1980s. It’s a beautifully planted space with seasonal blooms—cherry blossoms, wisteria, peonies and roses—and remains a quiet local favorite.

Promenade Pereire in Paris France near Ternes

Parc Monceau

Parc Monceau is a picturesque park popular with dog walkers and locals. Dogs are allowed in the main promenades and along the park’s edges, and the park’s elegant layout makes it ideal for a relaxing stroll.

Parc Monceau in Paris France

Address: Parc Monceau 75008 Paris

Shopping

Avenue des Ternes

Avenue des Ternes hosts many trendy Parisian boutiques for clothing, shoes and accessories. Popular local shops include Bompard for cashmere, Jonak and Mellow Yellow for shoes, Caroll for casual-chic clothing and Aesop for luxury body and skincare products.

Souvenirs

For practical and stylish souvenirs, Monoprix is a fun option offering food items, home goods and clothing. Mariage‑Frères is ideal for premium teas presented in elegant tins—perfect as gifts to bring home.

Pharmacies

Pharmacies are plentiful in the neighborhood and can help with everything from basic supplies to vaccinations and video consultations with doctors. Many have at least one English-speaking pharmacist on duty.

Activities in Paris to book in advance

Paris Activities

Popular activities to consider booking in advance include visits to the Arc de Triomphe, Seine river cruises, Eiffel Tower summit access, the Jacquemart-André Museum and Sainte-Chapelle. If you plan to visit Disneyland Paris, book ahead for the best options.

Dinner reservations

Restaurants in Paris often fill up, so reserve ahead for must-visit tables. If you’re spontaneous, try arriving without a reservation—many places retain a few last-minute spots or bar seating.

More Paris posts to help you plan your trip

Explore further reading on topics such as small museums in Paris, non‑touristy things to do, wine bars, cherry blossoms, seasonal guides (spring, summer, winter, Christmas), day trips, picnic ideas, afternoon tea, specialty coffee shops and travel tips to make the most of your visit.

Ternes Wagram Pereire Neighborhood Guide

Enjoy your trip to Paris!

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