McCormick & Schmick’s: An Evening of Perfect Pairings

One night I skipped my usual culinary lab to attend a special dinner at McCormick & Schmick’s titled “An Evening of Perfect Combinations.” I love learning in the kitchen—stoves, ovens and scrubbing at the three-compartment sink—but this event was worth missing class. The dinner promised a thoughtfully paired wine menu and dishes prepared by several area McCormick & Schmick’s chefs.

Although I’m not typically a fan of chain restaurants, I make exceptions. McCormick & Schmick’s, known for its seafood and steaks, surprised me with a memorable meal. I’d visited once years ago without much impression, but this invitation from the restaurant’s public relations representative changed that. I attended with my mother-in-law, and we were both eager to see what the evening held.

We arrived first and were warmly welcomed by staff, including the general and regional managers. To begin, we sipped a Ginger Martini that tasted like liquid pickled ginger—refreshing and bold. It was made with gin, ginger beer, grapefruit bitters and Campari, among other ingredients. The first course featured an impressive sushi and sashimi spread that matched the cocktail perfectly.

The sushi selection included Spicy Tuna Maki, California Maki, Tempura Lobster Maki and a Rainbow Roll, paired with sashimi of salmon, ahi tuna and hamachi. The Tempura Lobster Maki stood out: its warm, crispy exterior contrasted beautifully with the cool, tender interior. The sashimi was pristine and melted on the tongue. These offerings paired wonderfully with the Ginger Martini and the premium sake served alongside.

After mingling, we moved into the formal dinner with a small group of local food writers and chefs. Five area chefs—from Chicago, Wisconsin and Kansas—each prepared a course in a six-course tasting menu. The evening began with a striking oyster course.

The oysters were served three ways: baked with garlic butter over smoked fleur de sel; a fried Oyster Rockefeller with hollandaise; and a raw oyster on the half shell with a champagne mignonette. The raw oyster was my favorite for its clean, fresh taste enhanced by the mignonette, while the fried Rockefeller offered tasty contrast between the crispy exterior and creamed spinach filling. These were paired with a Mumm Brut Rosé from Napa, which brought notes of black cherry, raspberry and strawberry and a pale salmon hue.

The next course focused on shellfish: Creole glazed shrimp on a smooth cauliflower purée with fried Paulina smoked bacon. The cauliflower purée was silky and flavorful, a perfect base for the seasoned shrimp and juicy bacon. This was paired with a Saint M. Riesling from Germany, a sweet, clean wine with lemony hints that complemented the dish well.

Also in the shellfish course was a seared scallop with butternut squash risotto, spiced cider glaze and fried leeks. The scallop was cooked perfectly and the risotto added a comforting touch of fall. Fried leeks provided a pleasant crunch. This dish was paired with a Don Miguel Gascón Malbec from Argentina, a full-bodied wine with blackberry, blueberry and mocha notes, soft tannins and a velvety finish.

By the next course we were feeling satisfied but eager for more. The wild fish course featured a seared walleye with a phyllo purse filled with wild mushrooms, figs and goat cheese. The phyllo purse was a favorite for both of us—the combination of textures and flavors was exceptional. The simple, well-executed walleye was pan-seared and finished in the oven, and the pairing with Stag’s Leap “Karia” Chardonnay offered tropical fruit notes and a pleasant roundness that complemented the fish.

Also on the plate was wild salmon atop an asparagus salad with carrot ginger coulis. The asparagus was shaved into ribbons and the coulis added color and bright flavor, making the dish feel fresh and clean. The salmon was paired with a Whitehaven Pinot Noir from New Zealand, which showed dark cherry and plum flavors with subtle oak and spice; it was enjoyable, though slightly robust for such a delicate fish.

Next came the beef courses. First was sliced strip steak with roasted Brussels sprouts, fried onions and white truffle oil—tender, flavorful and melt-in-your-mouth. The Kenwood Sonoma County Zinfandel paired nicely with its jammy fruit and peppery spice. The second beef offering was a seared beef tenderloin atop a Black River blue cheese potato gratin with demi-glace. As a blue cheese fan, I loved the gratin’s depth and the tenderloin was once again cooked to perfection. A Cain Cuvée red blend completed this course, offering rich, velvety character that matched the beef well.

The dessert course was an elegant finish, presented in glasses. We enjoyed a chocolate parfait with fresh blackberries and raspberries, and a seasonal pumpkin brioche bread pudding with brandy caramel sauce and vanilla bean ice cream. These were paired with a Taylor Fladgate 30-year Tawny Port and a late-harvest Riesling. The parfait’s berries balanced the chocolate perfectly, while the pumpkin bread pudding felt like autumn in a glass—comforting and indulgent. I finished the meal with coffee, though the wine pairings matched the desserts well.

From Left: (1) John McGowan, Executive Chef, M&S Skokie; (2) Domhnall Molloy, Senior Executive Chef, M&S Chicago; (3) Carlos Farias, Executive Chef, M&S Chicago Wacker Drive; (4) Dan Smith, Executive Chef, M&S Milwaukee, WI; (5) Mike “Wally” Wallach, Executive Chef, M&S Chicago Rush & Chestnut.

The chefs’ care and skill were evident in every course. As a culinary student, I appreciated the time and technique behind each plate. After dinner we spoke with the chefs about their inspirations, careers and advice for working in the industry—these conversations were a highlight and left me inspired. I even plan to observe service with one of the chefs to gain hands-on experience.

My thanks to the McCormick & Schmick’s team for an exceptional evening. The food and service were impressive, and I now consider them a top choice for seafood and steak. If there’s a McCormick & Schmick’s near you, it’s worth a visit for a well-executed meal and thoughtful wine pairings.